Day Five: Photaksar to Stayang via SenggeLa Pass

Rajesh has already warned us. Today will be a very long and tough day. We’ll climb up to the highest altitude on this trek today and then quickly climb down. In short all the altitude variations could hit us despite taking medication. It was Ani’s brainwave to take Diamox which helps counter altitude sickness. Altitude can really create havoc on your system. Headache, mood swings, fatigue… you’ll want to be a teenager instead.

Nevertheless, after a trip to the loo wading which involved walking through ankle deep muck I am ready to take off. We walk past verdant barley fields of Photaksar and its village perched on the plateau above the river. There cannot be a more serendipitous moment. The village sits prettily at the bottom of the Photang valley surrounded by snow capped mountains and the feeling is of walking within a bowl of choc sundae topped with cream frosting. The sun’s still climbing the skies and as light filters through the crags of the mountains, I feel like Alice in Wonderland.

The path here on starts climbing and continues till after two hours we are on top of BumitseLa Pass at 14,430 ft. From here we can see the snowline of SenggeLa Pass. Rajesh wickedly lets us know that it will take only six hours to get there. Groan. The path climbs, levels off, descends, climbs up again; goes past charming mountain streams,lazily grazing yaks, marshy slushes and towering snow capped mountains. The sky is a brazen cobalt blue.

Ah if only I can continue in the same vein. It’s getting mind numbingly tiring. We have been walking for six hours now and there’s no sight of the basecamp of the pass even. The altitude is making things worse. Every step is an effort. Gah@%^@! It takes us an hour more to reach basecamp. Ani’s reached already but the three of us are exhausted and irritated, minor unmentionable skirmishes follow. Luckily, we remember it with laughter later.

The climb starts again and Rajesh decides to accompany me. Can’t complain, it’s actually reassuring. Traverse the mountains on sane-zig zag paths while Naveen follows Ani’s lead to take the insane-zig zag path. It’s shorter and steeper. It takes an hour more but we are there and the view is breathtaking. We can see all the way to SirsirLa. Hugs and congratulations follow. Ta da!

The day’s walk is not done yet. We have three more hours to go. Down we go. It’s precarious in phases, though shrubs of violet keep us company. In a while, we spot the campsite. But why is Rajesh standing past it and waving his hands. My stomach falls to my knees. That’s not our campsite is what he’s trying to tell us and more importantly to hurry. It’s already four and getting chilly. We need to reach our camp by six latest.

Ani and I are leading. We set a brisk pace; the well-laid out path traverses high over the mountains, almost near the ridge which means a panoramic view of the valleys & terraced fields of the Yulchung village. Is that where we camp for the night? If so, we have a long, long way to go! Think my numbed legs cannot comprehend that but they seem to have a life of their own. They are on auto mode, even if I were to stop them, they may not. Help!!! I am grateful for the wide, stone paved path though the wind is beginning to pick up and it isn’t warm. I pull on my gloves.

It’s six and just when I despair aloud about a non-existent camp, we spot it just across the bend sheltered within the curve of a mountain wall. I carry my frozen self straight to the kitchen tent. I haven’t been happier to reach our camp. Warm noodle soup makes me feel human again.

Boy, today was some day.

Day four, Zanskar Trek: Hanupatha to Photaksar (again)

Today we start early, having set into our schedules comfortably. The path starts climbing, we pass our little rock beds (yesterday they had served us well) and start traversing across the mountains, following the river down in the valley. We are walking upstream; despite our climb, the valley narrows out, the river levels up to our path and we can see the pass looming ahead of us.

It is going to be a steep climb but before we do that there’s a small bridge to cross. The river has narrowed down to a forceful stream, and the bridge across it is nothing but a few planks nailed together. A fall in the stream won’t be a good idea at all. But it still is the sturdiest one that we have come across so far. Rajesh asks if I need any help. Nada.

Climb to SirsiLa

I progress slowly over the sharp climb; Ani & Naveen are little ahead of me. It’s getting chillier as we scale the altitude and there are sharp drops along our path. Suddenly the path levels out on a plateau and there’s a small chai shop ahead. It just so bizarre to see a chai shop whose roof is an old, discarded parachute but the cheerful face of the stall owner tells me it’s not so insane after all. Apparently this is the ‘basecamp,’ but we are not to stop. The climb continues; I can see our cook, his assistant and mules climbing on the steep, muddy path snaking up the mountainside. It’s a short climb and in an hour we are on top of SirsiLa at 15,615 ft. Whoopeee! I just can’t stop myself from breaking into a small jig, whoop and run around! Neither can Naveen! It just feels unbelievable that after all my nervousness, we made it past a pass.

On top of SirsiLa (15,615 ft)

Before the climb down, Rajesh warns, “Thoda steep hai”. Argh, I didn’t realise how steep until I am on the 60 degree decline. Takes us an hour to get down and it’s almost 2 in the afternoon. Lunch boxes out, munch on sandwich, a bite of the staple hard-boiled egg, boiled potato and watch the marmots scamp from hole to hole.



Back on our feet, it takes us another two hours to reach camp. We hop over a smallish canal of a mountain stream when we see a mountain in the backdrop. The peak looks like its flicking the middle finger and we burst our laughing. Ani portends it’s an ominous sign from the mountains, especially since I made light of the day’s trek and said it was rather easy. Ha, ha.



It’s only four but already getting chilly though the hot soup waiting for us in the kitchen tent made up for it. Mmmm! To top that the cook tells us that dinner will be a surprise. Can’t wait! Meanwhile, back in the tent, we freshen up. I continue with the story of Harry Potter and The Deathly Hallows. We have been entertaining ourselves over the past few evenings with stories of Harry Potter. Don’t ask why.

We are in for a treat for dinner. They baked pizzas and a cake for us! Brilliant! At 13,610 ft in Photaksar, a pizza and cake was more than food.

Pizza & Mashed Potatoes. Feast for the kings here. Pic by Aniruddha Das

Day three, Zanskar Trek: Hanupatha to Photaksar

We wake up to the sing-song voice of Yash saying - “SIRJI, CHAI”. After our tent-chai, everything goes like clockwork. Brush, loo, fold sleeping bags, pack the day pack, fill water bottles, pull down the tent, breakfast, pack the lunch box and we are off. We have already started climbing, the path is steep and narrow, and I can feel my t-shirt soaking up my sweat. But in an hour and a half, we have stopped, Rajesh looks worried. We are to wait for the mules to catch up again. Apparently, the horseman was still searching for his mules when we left camp.



An hour goes by while we perch on rocks which overlook the valley. It’s a beautiful sight – undulating mountains ahead, a greenish valley below and a river flowing in between. Ani comments about how in Bangalore we would have been attending yet another weekly meeting time in coopy conference rooms. We feel sorry for our colleagues slaving away indoors while here we are – basking in the sun, high up on a mountain with a gentle breeze almost lulling us into sleep.

We want to see more, but Rajesh does not want to go yet. If the horseman does not find his mules before two in the afternoon, we will have to abort the day. Oh no, I don’t want to climb down and climb back up tomorrow. What a waste. But it’s safer to do so. If we reach the next camp and the mules don’t, we will have to camp under the stars. Without food and temperatures reaching sub-zero in the nights, we might as well call a heli-lift for three almost dying trekkers. So we wait and another hour goes by, yet no sign of the horseman.

Naveen & I, as we wait for the ponies to show up. Pic by Aniruddha Das

Meanwhile, we see a lone walker coming from the opposite direction who when asked tells that two aimless mules were seen at the next camp. Rajesh’s on his feet, tells us to wait there for the horseman and sets off to find the mules. Ani suggests going up the ridge of the mountain behind us to see if we can spot the horseman. I opt stay back claiming to guard our bags (while really I don’t want to trek more than already what awaits us. Ahem, I am reserving my energies). Naveen & Ani get back in an hour though there’s no sight of the horseman yet.

It’s almost one in the afternoon and looks like we might have to abort the day. Dang! As we are having our lunch, the horseman turns up. We tell him about the mules and Rajesh, and he’s off too. We snooze for a while on the rocks. Wake up and still no sight of Rajesh, horseman or the mules. It’s getting a bit chilly up there; Ani suggests we make a bonfire. We go about looking for dry brushwood and soon we have a small fire going.

It’s nearly three in the afternoon now and we spot Rajesh walking towards us. The horseman has found the mules but it’s too late to continue with the trek, even if we are to camp at the base of the next pass. Rajesh leads us back to our Hanupatha camp, disheartened we follow.

Peaks on fire at the Hanupatha camp

The aborted day though ended in the firing up of the peaks… kidding. I meant the sunset was so spectacular that the orange tinge of its descent gave the surrounding peaks a surreal look of being on fire. Nice!